Real Beauty 101

No More Cake Face! YouTubrity Marlena of Makeup Geek TV

Have you ever seen someone that has so much make-up on that it looks like they rolled their face in foundation? Or have you ever applied so much powder over the course of the day that by the end of the day your make-up literally creases and cracks? That's what we make-up artists call Cake Face and it's a tragedy. 

Here is a great video from Youtbrity (YouTube Celebrity) Marlena of Makeup Geek TV on how to properly layer primer, concealer, foundation, and powder in a manner that produces a very natural appearance - all day long.

 

Make sure you check out Marlena's other videos at Makeup Geek TV and follow her on Twitter at @makeupgeek!

No Double Dipping!

Remember the Seinfeld episode when George goes to an office party and he’s caught double-dipping his tortilla chips?

 

Well, double dipping is not sanitary at a party and it's not sanitary in the waxing room either!  The other character in the scene said that double dipping chips is like putting your whole mouth in the dip. If that analogy holds true, then double dipping in the salon during a bikini wax is like….well, you get the picture. Any way you look at it, it’s gross and is actually illegal in most states. Unfortunately, many waxing technicians double dip out of convenience and some are even trained to wax in that manner to control costs.

Here’s the deal, everyone has bacteria that lives on their skin and in most instances, that bacteria is not harmful. However, in some cases, the bacteria (like staph for instance) can be harmful to those people with weak immune systems like those with the flu or pregnant women. In addition, some waxing clients may bleed slightly during their treatments and double dipping will certainly contaminate the wax. Hot wax pots are perfect breeding grounds for germs and bacteria. 

Here are some tips to ensure your next waxing appoint is germ-free:

(1) As the spa about their double-dipping policy.  

(2) Make sure your wax technician uses a new application stick EACH TIME the wax is used. 

(3) Any waxing tools tools should come in a sterilized pouch and should be sanitized.  A new pouch should be opened each time.

(4) A new roll of waxing paper should be laid before each treatment.

(5) Lastly, make sure the technician wears gloves during your treatment.

Happy waxing!

 

Rub Don't Scrub - How to Choose (and Use) the Best Cleanser for Your Skin

The foundation for an effective beauty regimen is the right cleanser for your skin type. However, the process for choosing the right cleanser is often complex and further complicated by manufacturer claims and clever packaging. 

Here are some tips to keep in mind as you navigate your way through the beauty aisles searching for your next cleanser.

• Avoid choosing products with fragrance or dye. These two ingredients are largely responsible for nearly all allergic reactions that occur on the skin.
• Choose the right formulation for your skin type. Foaming cleaners should be used primarily for oily skin types. They contain surfactants (detergents that foam when in contact with water and are effective at washing surface oils from the skin), which can be too harsh and drying for other skin types.  These should be thoroughly rinsed from the skin. Milky cleansers contain moisturizers and should be used by normal to dry skin types. Oilier skin types may find these cleansers a bit heavy.  They do not require extensive rinsing like their foaming counterparts.
• Scrubs should be used occasionally and only as exfoliants. They should be used only on clean faces and only once per week for sensitive (they can be irritating and can lead to increased redness and inflammation) and oily skin types (they stimulate sebaceous glands and increase oil production).

Once you have chosen the best cleanser for your skin type, using the product effectively is they key to reaping maximum benefits from your purchase*.

• Clean your face twice daily if you have oily or normal skin, once a day if your skin is dry or damaged.
• Use warm water; too hot or too cold will dry the skin and may cause flaking and itching.
• Don't scrub! Lather your fingertips and use a gentle, circular motion to wash; rinse completely.
• Don't rub to dry! Gently pat with a soft towel.
• While your skin is still damp, apply a moisturizer suitable for your skin type; this restores the moisture balance that cleansing upsets by removing surface oils.

By using the above protocols, you will be well on your way to clean, clear skin!

 

*Utilization tips c/o Skin Inc.

The Search for Impossibly Small Pores

When I was a practicing esthetician, my clients frequently complained about not being able to achieve a smooth complexion.  While many times, they referred to frequent breakouts as the culprit, mostly, they complained about their large pores and wanted to know how they could minimize them.

First let’s get the jargon correct.  Some technicians will correctly refer to your skin follicles when referencing your “pores”.  Follicles are tiny tubes that have roots that stretch way down deep into the inner layers of the skin. Pores are the tiny openings on top of the skin that sit on top of follicles. Most of our follicles contain hairs, although there are some that don’t (i.e. palms of hands and feet, lips, etc). The size and shape of your follicle will determine the size and shape of your pore.

Next, here’s the sad truth.  Unfortunately, your pores can not be minimized.  You are stuck with them, at THAT size.  Ultimately, genetics determine pore size, as do skin type and age. So what’s the deal with all of the “pore minimizers” on the market?? It’s a simple concept that runs fairly rampant throughout the beauty industry - false advertising.  Some companies have made moves to protect themselves and are now stating that their products “reduce the appearance of the size of pores” which is a safer claim. 

So why do some pores appear to be so large? Leslie Baumann, professor and director of cosmetic dermatology at the Miller School of Medicine at the University of Miami, says, "If your skin is oily, and that oil gets trapped inside the pores (follicle), it oxidizes and turns dark”. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center also says "Over time—especially if you've had a lot of sun exposure in the past—you start to lose the collagen and elastin that support the pores. They begin to stretch and sag around the edges, which can make them look bigger." And if your pores have been stretched out of shape, unfortunately, they will stay that way.

What can you do to achieve that smooth complexion that so many long for? Exfoliation is key as exfoliation rids pores of all build-up (sweat, cells, and sebum) and can also tighten the skin around the pores, making them appear smaller.

• First cleanse your face with products containing a low concentration—.5 to 1%—of salicylic acid, which is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, or a moderate concentration—2.5 to 5%—of lactic or glycolic acid, which are alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, stimulate cell turnover and keep pores clean. 
• Next, the moisturizer you use on large pores should be oil-free and contain the same ingredients as your cleanser. 
• Use at home masks and peels on a weekly basis to maintain consistent results. 
• If at-home treatments don’t work, speak with your dermatologist about prescription products and/or laser therapy - both of which are very effective.

Facts vs Fiction

Do you know how to separate the myths vs reality when it comes to proper skin care?  Even estheticians don't get it right all of the time.  Its always surprising to me to learn the level of mis-information that's out there regarding skin care.

In a great article from Skin Inc Magazine, Mark Lees (one of the skin care industry's foremost leaders on skin care education) polls estheticians during a session at a national conference to see just how much THEY can separate fact from fiction.  Their answers may surprise you...

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Getting the Facts Straight

By: Mark Lees, PhD

Posted: December 31, 2009, from the January 2010 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.

Editor’s note: This article is based on “Real vs. Rumor: The Truths and Myths of Skin Care,” the author’s presentation at Face & Body® 2009 Spa and Healthy Aging Conference and Expo in San Jose, California.

The skin care industry has always been plagued with rumors and myths. In order to dispel some of these many fallacies, a special class was designed to help clear up frequent misconceptions, as well as discover how many estheticians knew the truth about these common understandings—or misunderstandings, as it may be.

At the Face & Body® 2009 Spa & Healthy Aging Conference and Expo in San Jose, California, 68 estheticians were presented with a questionnaire listing 12 commonly held beliefs about skin care and were then asked to identify these statements as true or false. The purpose of this survey was to determine whether the estheticians attending this educational session actually knew the correct information. The results of the survey follow, along with an explanation of the correct answers.

True or false? Mineral oil causes clogged pores.

31% answered true; 69% answered false

This is a very common erroneous belief among both estheticians and consumers. The simple truth is pharmaceutical-grade or cosmetic mineral oil is noncomedogenic. In many studies, mineral oil has been shown not to form comedones, and in one study, it has been shown to actually decrease inflammation in acne patients. However, the fact that mineral oil has an oily texture may be objectionable to those with already oily skin.

True or false? Breakouts after facials are an indication that the skin is purging itself of toxins.

49% answered true; 51% answered false

Breakouts and pimples that seem to surge after a facial are inflammatory or irritant reactions to the methods or products used in the treatment. The skin has no physiological mechanism to purge itself of toxins. Inflammation occurs within the follicle during the facial treatment and causes swelling of the follicle walls, which impairs oxygen from reaching the bottom of the follicle. Acne bacteria are anaerobic, and thrive in an environment void of oxygen.

To avoid breakouts after facial treatments, use correct extraction techniques and properly soften areas to be extracted with a good desincrustant product. Also, use a soothing serum after extractions, avoid highly fragranced products and excessive massage or excessive extractions, and eschew any overdrying masks that could cause irritation.

True or false? Eating greasy foods will not flare acne.

40% answered true; 60% answered false

Even though eating excessive amounts of fried foods is not a healthy nutrition habit, there is no scientific evidence that greasy foods cause or worsen acne. However, there is evidence that working in a greasy environment, such as a fast-food restaurant, may worsen acne due to the skin being exposed to airborne grease from frying foods.

True or false? Sun helps dry up acne lesions.

46% answered true; 54% answered false

The ultraviolet rays of the sun do kill acne bacteria and help to dry up acne lesions. Additionally, natural pigmentation from tanning can help hide the redness of acne. However, the same rays cause inflammation and long-term damage to the skin that might eventually lead to premature aging or even skin cancer. There are better—and much safer—ways of drying acne lesions using effective skin care.

True or false? Natural products are less likely to cause breakouts.

15% answered true; 85% answered false

There is no evidence that skin care products of natural origin are less likely to cause breakouts than those made with synthetic ingredients. In fact, many natural skin care products contain natural oils that may be broken down in the follicle when applied, ending up as fatty acids, many of which are known to be comedogenic or acnegenic.

Synthetic ingredients such as silicones and polymers do not break down or create fatty acids. Additionally, essential oils can be stimulating and irritating to the follicles, and many frequently used carrier oils for aromatherapy are known to be comedogenic.

True or false? Acne breakouts concentrated in the chin and jawline areas are likely caused by hormone fluctuations.

82% answered true; 18% answered false

Premenstrual acne flares are very common in the chin and jawline areas. They have been associated with the hormone variations common with normal menstrual cycles; the beginning or discontinuation of hormonal therapy, including birth control pills; and potentially even gynecological illnesses.

If a client has chronic chin and jawline breakouts that are not controllable with topical esthetic care, refer the client to a dermatologist or an endocrinologist for analysis of individual hormone levels. There are drug therapies that can help with these fluctuations and their resulting acne flares.

True or false? Benzoyl peroxide often works for a while, but eventually acne bacteria become resistant to it.

50% answered true; 50% answered false

Acne bacteria do not become resistant to benzoyl peroxide (BPO). BPO is both antibacterial and keratolytic, helping to rid the skin of dead-cell buildup on the surface and in the follicle. When a client begins using BPO, there is usually a fairly fast response, resulting in substantially clearer skin. Clients sometimes then stop using the BPO, thinking they are clear and do not need it any longer. Of course, acne is a chronic condition and lesions will reoccur quickly if the medication is stopped.

Clients also sometimes overuse BPO, applying it more often or heavier than recommended. Because BPO is a peeling agent, it can be an irritant, especially if overused. The follicles can become irritated from overuse, resulting in perifollicular inflammation, and therefore causing acne flares. Benzoyl peroxide is a wonderful medication for clients with acne, and estheticians should take the time to educate their clients and coach them on its correct use.

True or false? You should avoid products containing any form of alcohol, because it dries the skin.

38% answered true; 62% answered false

The term alcohol is a chemical term, and it takes many forms in cosmetic chemistry. Certain forms of alcohol such as isopropyl, ethyl and SD alcohols are volatile alcohols and should be avoided in skin types that are dry or sensitive. However, oily and combination skin types may actually benefit from small amounts of volatile alcohols, helping to disperse excess sebum on the skin’s surface.

SD alcohol is sometimes also used as an evaporating agent, added to quickly dry products. Other forms of alcohols are actually moisturizing ingredients, such as cetyl alcohol, which is used in lightweight moisturizers.

True or false? Skin dryness and dehydration is a primary cause of wrinkles.

37% answered true; 63% answered false

Skin dryness and dehydration can certainly make wrinkles and aging skin look worse, but wrinkles are primarily caused by facial expression and cumulative sun exposure. Using a daily moisturizer with hydration agents that also contains a broad-spectrum sunscreen is a great way to help wrinkles look better and prevent the daily exposure that actually causes damage to the dermis making skin wrinkled.

Also, daily use of some the newer peptide products, along with agents such as alpha hydroxy acid and retinol, can actually have long-term benefits in making the skin look much less wrinkled.

True or false? 100% all-natural products are chemical-free.

3% answered true; 97% answered false

Nothing is chemical-free. Everything, including plant extracts, skin care products and even the human body is made up of chemicals. Without chemicals, people could not move, think or live. Natural substances can contain hundreds of chemicals that are naturally present, and in fact, one-third of all prescription drugs are made from plant sources.

True or false? Allergic reactions are the No. 1 type of reaction caused by skin care products.

54% answered true; 46% answered false

The No. 1 type of reaction to skin care products are irritant reactions, mostly caused by overexfoliation, which damages the barrier function of the skin, causing both inflammation and dehydration. Overuse of foaming-type cleansers or using cleansers that are too strong for the skin type can also cause irritant reactions.

Irritant reactions can also affect anyone who overexfoliates or overuses stripping products, or even overstimulates the skin. Allergic reactions only occur in people who have a strong immune reaction to the product.

True or false? Drinking alcohol causes phymatous rosacea, or rhinophyma.

29% answered true; 71% answered false

Drinking alcohol can be a trigger for rosacea flares and sudden redness in people who already have rosacea, as can heat, sun, stress, spicy foods and even exercise. None of these actually cause rosacea however, and not all triggers affect all rosacea patients.

Rosacea, including phymatous rosacea, which causes the bulbous nose condition known as rhinophyma, is believed to be hereditary. Rosacea patients should avoid triggers that flare their condition, as continual flaring can make it worse.

While it is encouraging that many estheticians already knew the correct answers to these questions, it’s important for all skin care professionals to be skeptical about any statements they hear regarding skin care. The true answer to preventing myths and erroneous information is to keep from spreading it in the industry and to clients by learning the correct information at continuing education classes.

Fab Holiday Looks from Iman

I have been using Iman Cosmetics for about two years now and I remain amazed at the depth of this product line and its affordability.  I really love this line because its not too heavy and the colors are rich.  Its a really high quality line for the price.  And you can find the products everywhere from Target to Ulta!

Iman has some great application videos.  I'm posting some of my faves below but check out her youtube channel for more. These would be fantatic looks for all of your holiday parties!

Ewww, what's on your lipstick??

Mintel (a leading global research organization that publishes studies on the beauty industry) recently published a report that highlighted the dangers associated with using outdated cosmetics.  We all know that as beauty products age, they lose their efficacy but did you know that outdated products can actually be hazardous to your health??

Alexandra Richmond, Mintel's senior beauty analyst, said: "These latest findings highlight a lack of information available on cosmetic sell-by dates. Repeated exposure to bacteria from the mouth affects lip colour cosmetics, while out-of-date mascara and eye pencils can raise the risk of infections. Natural and organic products containing fewer or no preservatives have a shorter shelf-life than conventional products and therefore potentially harbor higher levels of bacteria."

Interestingly enough, Dr. Oz (of Oprah Winfrey show fame) kicked off his new TV show with a segment on the dangers of using yucky (unclean) or old cosmetics.  The bacteria found in cosmetics can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and even meningitis!

Dr. Oz shared the following tips:

1. Absolutely, under no circumstances, should you share lipstick or lipgloss.  These products harbor bacteria which can be transmitted from person to person.  You can actually catch Herpes from using an infected person's lipstick and since some people show no signs (i.e. no cold-sores), you wouldn't even know you were immediately infected.
2. To kill bacteria on your own lipstick, dip the lipstick in ispropyl alcohol for 15-20 seconds.
3. Do not "pump" your mascara.  This actually introduces more air into the product and creates a breeding ground for bacteria. To kill bacteria, Dr. Oz recommends freezing mascara tubes overnight. Who knew?!?
4. To clean pressed powder, take a plastic butter knife and scrape off the top layers of the powder until it looks (in both color and texture) like it did when you first purchased it.
5. Regularly sharpen eye pencils.  Sharpening discards old layers, revealing fresh product underneath.
6. Wipe down your make-up bag with sanitizing or alcohol wipes at least once per week.

For more information on when to toss your cosmetics, check out my earlier post on this topic.

You don't need an eye cream?!

As a licensed esthetician, I am going to say something very controversial.  I respect Paula Begoun.  I don't always agree with her, but I respect her.  There, I said it.  For those of you who are not familiar with Paula, she is dubbed "The Cosmetics Cop".  She wrote the immensely popular "Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me" which exposed the cream of the crop from the crap in the world of beauty products.  She has appeared as a beauty expert on countless TV shows ranging from CNN to Oprah.

Its controversial to respect Paula because many estheticians truly believe that the best products are "professional" products.  Its not hard to understand why since "professional" products can only be sold in spas and dr. offices and if we, as estheticians, endorse over the counter products, that's taking money straight out of our wallets. And as you can imagine, many in the beauty industry (i.e. cosmetics companies) have issues with Paula, especially when she pans their products.  But what Paula attempts to do is separate fact from fiction - distinguish the actual performance of a product from its claims by consulting with cosmetic chemists, analyzing the latest medical research and testing each individual product.

In this video, Paula addresses eye creams.  Paula asserts that there is no need for eye creams because, for the most part, they contain the same ingredients as face creams and claims for the need for eye creams are bogus.  I challenge you to read labels and see if Paula's assertions are true.  Let me know what you find!

Paula Begoun - You Dont Need an Eye Cream
Uploaded by CosmeticsCopTV. - More college and campus videos.

Beauty Buzz with Jennifer Walsh

Great video featuring Jennifer Walsh, noted beauty expert, speaking about some of the hottest new skin care products.  Featured products include:

• Best of Skintentions by Bliss - super vitamin enriched moisturizer
• Freeze and Go by Freeze 247- Botox-like topical moisturizer for face
• Brazilian Peel - first medical strength glycolic peel (30%) available OTC
• Morpho Slim by Lorac - topical slimming solution

The skinny: Topical solutions have temporary effects so if you choose to purchase these products, expect to keep using them to achieve and maintain desired results. But I have to say that I am VERY curious about the Brazilian peel.  It appears to contain a neutralizer that "shuts it off" so that home users will not get burned.  However, users should expect the same recovery conditions associated with glycolic peels such as the potential for redness, flakiness/shedding of skin, and increased sensitivity until skin has fully healed.  Also, if you choose to use this product, remember to slather on the sunscreen!!  As is the case with all peels, your skin will especially susceptible and vulnerable to penetration of UVA/UVB rays which will increase chances of sun damage.

Tweet with Jennifer! - @behindthebrand

pH Testing Your Skin Care Products

In this audio post, I talk about how pH testing your skin care products can lead to healthier skin and better skin care purchases! 

   

To purchase a pH testing set, you can visit - www.spaelegance.com.