Top Ten Skin Care Myths
By Ada S. Polla Tray
An
essential part of the esthetician’s job is to educate clients on skin
health, skin care products, and the numerous cutaneous, therapeutic
options available. While most consumers have become increasingly
well-versed in products (antioxidants, ingredients) and treatments
(lasers, fillers, spa therapies), a number of myths pervade the
marketplace. Sometimes, the myths are so prevalent that they trickle up
to the skin care therapist’s level, becoming part of the accepted and
common skin care wisdom. This article lists 10 skin care myths that
recur in the minds of both skin care consumers and skin care
professionals.
Myth No. 1
Parabens in cosmetics are dangerous.
The
controversy about parabens and their potential involvement in breast
cancer centers on the following claim: Parabens behave like estrogen,
and increased exposure in the body to such substances increases the
likelihood of suffering from various cancers. However, the belief that
parabens act like estrogen relies on a single published paper from one
group reporting in vitro research that shows traces of parabens in
breast cancer tissue. More numerous studies have been published that
maintain the safety of parabens, none of which substantiate the
controversy.
The truth: Parabens have an extensive history of
safe use in consumer products, foods, and beverages, and play a
critical role in the defense against disease and infection by, at low
concentrations, preventing fungal and bacterial contamination. Parabens
are recognized as safe by the World Health Organization, as well as
government agencies throughout the world. In the United States, the
Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel (an independent body of
internationally recognized medical and scientific experts in safety
evaluation) recently reviewed parabens and concluded that they are safe
for use in cosmetic products.
With a track record of safety
and efficacy as preservatives and antibacterial agents, parabens are a
safer choice than some alternatives that have not been investigated to
the same degree.
Myth No. 2
Mineral oil is comedogenic.
Mineral
oil has developed a bad reputation in the world of skin care, accused
of clogging pores and negatively impacting the quality of the skin.
The
truth: Mineral oil is a common ingredient used in cosmetics, as it is a
lightweight ingredient that is inexpensive, odorless, tasteless, and
has not been shown to cause allergic reactions. Mineral oil has been
used in European skin care products widely. In the United States, its
questionable status is because of the fact that many sources have
classified it as comedogenic. However, the level of comedogenicity
seems to be related to the grade of the product used. Indeed, there is
industrial-grade mineral oil, which is used as a machine lubricant and
not of the quality required for skin care products. Cosmetic-grade
mineral oil, however, is of a purer quality and has not unequivocally
been demonstrated to negatively impact the skin.
Myth No. 3
Fragrance in cosmetics is bad for your skin.
The
consumer media has taken a strong stance against the use of fragrances
in skin care products and cosmetics. A recent perusal of various
magazines and an online search on the subject yielded strong
anti-fragrance positions:
• Synthetic fragrances are the No. 1 skin irritant.
• Fragrances cause more allergic contact dermatitis than any other ingredient.
• It is estimated that 5.72 million people in the United States are allergic to fragrance.
It should be noted that these facts apply to fragrances, not to skin care products containing fragrances.
The truth:
• Less than 2 percent of the U.S. population is allergic to fragrances.
•
Some of the most popular facial skin care products in the United
States, including those from Olay, Estée Lauder, and Lancôme, contain
fragrances.
• A recent report on skin care identified a key consumer
need: 71 percent of consumers want more sensations from products, i.e.,
appeal to the five senses.
Furthermore, numerous clinical studies support the benefits of scent, which include:
• People who wear scents are perceived to be more attractive and even slimmer.
• Fragrance can boost self-esteem, reduce stress, enhance memory, and increase efficiency and accuracy.
•
Fragrances are important in neurological and general well-being; aromas
act on the region of the brain that is responsible for memory and
emotion.
Finally, the question of concentration is essential to
this debate. Indeed, the fragrance concentration in skin care products
rarely exceeds 0.5 percent, versus up to 30 percent in a perfume. A
skin reacting to perfume will not necessarily react to cosmetic
products containing a small concentration of fragrance.
Myth No. 4
Acne-prone skin types should use benzoyl peroxide daily on the entire face.
Benzoyl
peroxide is one of the most common, and most effective, ingredients in
a variety of anti-acne products. The “benzoyl” propels “peroxide” into
the follicle, releasing oxygen and killing the anaerobic P. acnes
bacteria responsible for acne lesions.
The truth: While
benzoyl peroxide does effectively kill the bacteria that are known to
cause acne, the side effects are an increased presence of oxygen free
radicals, which may affect endogenous cells and lead to accelerated
skin aging. Indeed, peroxides and other oxygen metabolites are not
strictly selective for bacteria and can also alter the host’s cells.
The best recommendation for acne-suffering patients is therefore to use
benzoyl peroxide products sparsely, selectively, and exclusively on
acne-prone areas (i.e., not on the eye contour).
It should be
noted that to address this problem, some manufacturers have added
antioxidants to their benzoyl peroxide products. However, the concept
is flawed. Antioxidants prevent the optimal functioning of the benzoyl
peroxide, while the latter, in turn, prevents the antioxidants from
functioning effectively. The result: your clients will suffer from both
acne and wrinkles!
Myth No. 5
Oily skin doesn’t need hydration.
Many
people think that oily skin’s worst nightmare is a hydrating or
moisturizing product. The misinformed believe that oily, acne-prone
skin types need harsh, stripping products to remove excess sebum and
diminish sebum production.
The truth: A vicious circle is
created by the use of astringent products, as the skin’s natural
response is to overproduce sebum to counteract the stripping effects:
oily skin, harsh detergent products, oilier skin, and so on and so
forth.
The key to treating oily skin optimally is to achieve a
balance between not enough sebum and excess sebum production. This is
best achieved with noncomedogenic, lightweight moisturizers that will
hydrate the skin, but do not increase oiliness. A favorite ingredient
is jojoba seed oil, which is close to human sebum in chemical
composition, and thus acts as both a hydrator and a sebum regulator.
Myth No. 6
SPF products are enough to protect the skin from sun damage.
Wear
an SPF product, in particular with a high SPF factor (30+), reapply it
regularly, and you will be completely safe from ultraviolet-induced sun
damage, whether from UVA or UVB rays, right? Not really.
The
truth: First, SPF terminology is primarily a measure of UVB protection,
and does not apply to UVA rays. Furthermore, most ingredients used in
SPF products available on the U.S. market do not block the entire
ultraviolet spectrum.
SPF filters work in one of two ways:
they either absorb UVAs (320 to 400 nm) and UVBs (290 to 320 nm), or
they reflect these nefarious rays. The more popular metallic
ingredients such as zinc or titanium are examples of ingredients that
facilitate the reflection of light. Zinc protects from rays ranging
from 290 to 380 nm, whereas titanium protects from rays ranging form
290 to 340 nm. Neither protect from the 380 to 400 nm range (UVA rays).
The
solution: always complement SPF protection (which, let’s be clear, is
absolutely essential) with antioxidant protection. Indeed, antioxidants
such as green tea effectively neutralize the free radicals that are
created from incomplete reflection or absorption of nefarious
ultraviolet rays. As such, antioxidants are the skin’s second line of
defense and, when combined with SPF products, enable the most effective
sun protection. Specifically, always recommend that your clients apply
an antioxidant product underneath their SPF product.
Myth No. 7
Wrinkles are the primary sign of skin aging.
With
the emergence of cosmeceuticals, the rise of photorejuvenation
treatments, and the increased popularity of injections, the focus of
anti-aging therapies has been wrinkles.
Wrinkles are indeed a
key sign of skin aging, caused by changes in each of the skin’s layers.
However, should a 70-year-old, wrinkled patient undergo a facelift, her
wrinkles would be gone, but she would still not look 40. Why not?
The
truth: While wrinkles are a key sign of skin aging, there are four
other tell-tale signs that should be targeted by any comprehensive
rejuvenation treatment regimen:
• A citrin (yellowish) coloration of the skin
• Brown spots (a.k.a., age spots)
• Increased redness and broken capillaries
• Increased roughness of the skin
The
colored aspect of aged skin (both red and brown) as well as its rough
texture, are as important as wrinkling when diagnosing aging skin and
recommending the best treatment options to your clients. Remember to
treat wrinkles, but also uneven pigmentation and skin tone, suggesting
treatments such as peels, pulsed-dye laser treatments and
microdermabrasion.
Myth No. 8
Anti-aging treatments are for the face only.
Spa
goers and skin care consumers typically spend more time and money on
products and treatments to rejuvenate their faces than their body. The
widespread belief is that one’s face is what gives away one’s age. Or
is it?
The truth: Most women reveal their age with their neck,
décolleté, and hands … The skin of the neck, arms, hands and décolleté
(and scalp for many men) is as exposed to ultraviolet radiation as the
face and needs as much, if not more, protection. Most anti-aging
products that are adequate for the face will also be good for these
exposed body parts. Remind your clients to treat their body, in
particular their neck, décolleté, hands, and arms, to prevent the
appearance of brown spots, wrinkles and other signs of skin aging.
Anti-aging products for the body are now prevalent, ranging from body
lotions that contain antioxidants to body washes that are based on
glycolic acid.
Myth No. 9
Skin care is for women only.
Signs
of skin aging affect women only—a more mature woman is considered
“old,” whereas an older gentleman, with wrinkles, brown spots, and
white hair is considered “wise and rugged” (think Clint Eastwood or
Sean Connery).
The truth: Skin cancer is not picky in terms of
gender, and affects men and women indiscriminately. Protection from sun
damage and ultraviolet rays is as important for men as it is for women.
As such, a sound skin care regimen, which includes antioxidant
moisturizers, sun protection, and products based on other rejuvenating
ingredients, is necessary if men are to age not only gracefully, but
also safely. Indeed, men are becoming much more amenable to such
products and treatments, as is illustrated by their increasing interest
in cosmetic therapies such as hair removal, injections and more.
Myth No. 10
Organic products are always the best skin care choice.
There
has been an increase in interest for alternative therapies like yoga,
natural wellness, organic skin care products and organic foods, as well
as more holistic approaches to well-being. And rightly so: the American
Academy of Nutrition recommends the extensive consumption of fruits and
vegetables as a better alternative to cancer prevention than
micronutrients, antioxidants and/or vitamins in oral supplement form.
The
truth: The truth is not too far from the myth … natural and organic
ingredients are safe, and a holistic approach to wellness is a positive
development in the skin care field. However, all these natural
ingredients have to be formulated, enhanced, and preserved so that we
may use them safely and efficiently. The optimal therapeutic modality,
in terms of both skin care regimen and treatment program, should be
highly customized to each client, and should blend medical and
scientific treatments or medications with natural, organic, and
holistic approaches to wellness. The most effective, therapeutic
approach will be a synergistic one: nature and science hand in hand.
About Ada Polla Tray
Ada S. Polla Tray, MBA,
launched a skin care products company, Alchimie Forever, in North
America in 2003. She has experience in consulting and product
management of medical devices. A frequent speaker at Georgetown
University and skin care/spa conferences, she is on the editorial board
of PCI Journal and is a member of the ISPA marketing committee.
