Real Beauty 101

Rub Don't Scrub - How to Choose (and Use) the Best Cleanser for Your Skin

The foundation for an effective beauty regimen is the right cleanser for your skin type. However, the process for choosing the right cleanser is often complex and further complicated by manufacturer claims and clever packaging. 

Here are some tips to keep in mind as you navigate your way through the beauty aisles searching for your next cleanser.

• Avoid choosing products with fragrance or dye. These two ingredients are largely responsible for nearly all allergic reactions that occur on the skin.
• Choose the right formulation for your skin type. Foaming cleaners should be used primarily for oily skin types. They contain surfactants (detergents that foam when in contact with water and are effective at washing surface oils from the skin), which can be too harsh and drying for other skin types.  These should be thoroughly rinsed from the skin. Milky cleansers contain moisturizers and should be used by normal to dry skin types. Oilier skin types may find these cleansers a bit heavy.  They do not require extensive rinsing like their foaming counterparts.
• Scrubs should be used occasionally and only as exfoliants. They should be used only on clean faces and only once per week for sensitive (they can be irritating and can lead to increased redness and inflammation) and oily skin types (they stimulate sebaceous glands and increase oil production).

Once you have chosen the best cleanser for your skin type, using the product effectively is they key to reaping maximum benefits from your purchase*.

• Clean your face twice daily if you have oily or normal skin, once a day if your skin is dry or damaged.
• Use warm water; too hot or too cold will dry the skin and may cause flaking and itching.
• Don't scrub! Lather your fingertips and use a gentle, circular motion to wash; rinse completely.
• Don't rub to dry! Gently pat with a soft towel.
• While your skin is still damp, apply a moisturizer suitable for your skin type; this restores the moisture balance that cleansing upsets by removing surface oils.

By using the above protocols, you will be well on your way to clean, clear skin!

 

*Utilization tips c/o Skin Inc.

The Search for Impossibly Small Pores

When I was a practicing esthetician, my clients frequently complained about not being able to achieve a smooth complexion.  While many times, they referred to frequent breakouts as the culprit, mostly, they complained about their large pores and wanted to know how they could minimize them.

First let’s get the jargon correct.  Some technicians will correctly refer to your skin follicles when referencing your “pores”.  Follicles are tiny tubes that have roots that stretch way down deep into the inner layers of the skin. Pores are the tiny openings on top of the skin that sit on top of follicles. Most of our follicles contain hairs, although there are some that don’t (i.e. palms of hands and feet, lips, etc). The size and shape of your follicle will determine the size and shape of your pore.

Next, here’s the sad truth.  Unfortunately, your pores can not be minimized.  You are stuck with them, at THAT size.  Ultimately, genetics determine pore size, as do skin type and age. So what’s the deal with all of the “pore minimizers” on the market?? It’s a simple concept that runs fairly rampant throughout the beauty industry - false advertising.  Some companies have made moves to protect themselves and are now stating that their products “reduce the appearance of the size of pores” which is a safer claim. 

So why do some pores appear to be so large? Leslie Baumann, professor and director of cosmetic dermatology at the Miller School of Medicine at the University of Miami, says, "If your skin is oily, and that oil gets trapped inside the pores (follicle), it oxidizes and turns dark”. Jeannette Graf, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center also says "Over time—especially if you've had a lot of sun exposure in the past—you start to lose the collagen and elastin that support the pores. They begin to stretch and sag around the edges, which can make them look bigger." And if your pores have been stretched out of shape, unfortunately, they will stay that way.

What can you do to achieve that smooth complexion that so many long for? Exfoliation is key as exfoliation rids pores of all build-up (sweat, cells, and sebum) and can also tighten the skin around the pores, making them appear smaller.

• First cleanse your face with products containing a low concentration—.5 to 1%—of salicylic acid, which is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, or a moderate concentration—2.5 to 5%—of lactic or glycolic acid, which are alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, stimulate cell turnover and keep pores clean. 
• Next, the moisturizer you use on large pores should be oil-free and contain the same ingredients as your cleanser. 
• Use at home masks and peels on a weekly basis to maintain consistent results. 
• If at-home treatments don’t work, speak with your dermatologist about prescription products and/or laser therapy - both of which are very effective.