Top 10 Skin Care Myths

This is an article written by my good friend Ada Polla Tray, founder of Alchimie Forever (www.alchimie-forever.com).  This is a controversial article as it challenges many of the current theories of skin care.  While I don't agree with Ada 100% on every point, she does raise a few good arguments.  This just goes to show that the jury is still out on many of these controversial topics.  I continue to advocate that skin care choices are personal and if something is working for you whether it be an USDA Certified Organic product or daily dabs of Noxema (my mother's favorite), stick with it!  If its not, there are plenty of alternatives on the market.

Top Ten Skin Care Myths

By Ada S. Polla Tray

An essential part of the esthetician’s job is to educate clients on skin health, skin care products, and the numerous cutaneous, therapeutic options available. While most consumers have become increasingly well-versed in products (antioxidants, ingredients) and treatments (lasers, fillers, spa therapies), a number of myths pervade the marketplace. Sometimes, the myths are so prevalent that they trickle up to the skin care therapist’s level, becoming part of the accepted and common skin care wisdom. This article lists 10 skin care myths that recur in the minds of both skin care consumers and skin care professionals.

Myth No. 1

Parabens in cosmetics are dangerous.

The controversy about parabens and their potential involvement in breast cancer centers on the following claim: Parabens behave like estrogen, and increased exposure in the body to such substances increases the likelihood of suffering from various cancers. However, the belief that parabens act like estrogen relies on a single published paper from one group reporting in vitro research that shows traces of parabens in breast cancer tissue. More numerous studies have been published that maintain the safety of parabens, none of which substantiate the controversy.

The truth: Parabens have an extensive history of safe use in consumer products, foods, and beverages, and play a critical role in the defense against disease and infection by, at low concentrations, preventing fungal and bacterial contamination. Parabens are recognized as safe by the World Health Organization, as well as government agencies throughout the world. In the United States, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel (an independent body of internationally recognized medical and scientific experts in safety evaluation) recently reviewed parabens and concluded that they are safe for use in cosmetic products.

With a track record of safety and efficacy as preservatives and antibacterial agents, parabens are a safer choice than some alternatives that have not been investigated to the same degree.

Myth No. 2

Mineral oil is comedogenic.

Mineral oil has developed a bad reputation in the world of skin care, accused of clogging pores and negatively impacting the quality of the skin.
The truth: Mineral oil is a common ingredient used in cosmetics, as it is a lightweight ingredient that is inexpensive, odorless, tasteless, and has not been shown to cause allergic reactions. Mineral oil has been used in European skin care products widely. In the United States, its questionable status is because of the fact that many sources have classified it as comedogenic. However, the level of comedogenicity seems to be related to the grade of the product used. Indeed, there is industrial-grade mineral oil, which is used as a machine lubricant and not of the quality required for skin care products. Cosmetic-grade mineral oil, however, is of a purer quality and has not unequivocally been demonstrated to negatively impact the skin.

Myth No. 3

Fragrance in cosmetics is bad for your skin.

The consumer media has taken a strong stance against the use of fragrances in skin care products and cosmetics. A recent perusal of various magazines and an online search on the subject yielded strong anti-fragrance positions:

• Synthetic fragrances are the No. 1 skin irritant.
• Fragrances cause more allergic contact dermatitis than any other ingredient.
• It is estimated that 5.72 million people in the United States are allergic to fragrance.

It should be noted that these facts apply to fragrances, not to skin care products containing fragrances.

The truth:

• Less than 2 percent of the U.S. population is allergic to fragrances.
• Some of the most popular facial skin care products in the United States, including those from Olay, Estée Lauder, and Lancôme, contain fragrances.
• A recent report on skin care identified a key consumer need: 71 percent of consumers want more sensations from products, i.e., appeal to the five senses.

Furthermore, numerous clinical studies support the benefits of scent, which include:
• People who wear scents are perceived to be more attractive and even slimmer.
• Fragrance can boost self-esteem, reduce stress, enhance memory, and increase efficiency and accuracy.
• Fragrances are important in neurological and general well-being; aromas act on the region of the brain that is responsible for memory and emotion.

Finally, the question of concentration is essential to this debate. Indeed, the fragrance concentration in skin care products rarely exceeds 0.5 percent, versus up to 30 percent in a perfume. A skin reacting to perfume will not necessarily react to cosmetic products containing a small concentration of fragrance.

Myth No. 4

Acne-prone skin types should use benzoyl peroxide daily on the entire face.

Benzoyl peroxide is one of the most common, and most effective, ingredients in a variety of anti-acne products. The “benzoyl” propels “peroxide” into the follicle, releasing oxygen and killing the anaerobic P. acnes bacteria responsible for acne lesions.

The truth: While benzoyl peroxide does effectively kill the bacteria that are known to cause acne, the side effects are an increased presence of oxygen free radicals, which may affect endogenous cells and lead to accelerated skin aging. Indeed, peroxides and other oxygen metabolites are not strictly selective for bacteria and can also alter the host’s cells. The best recommendation for acne-suffering patients is therefore to use benzoyl peroxide products sparsely, selectively, and exclusively on acne-prone areas (i.e., not on the eye contour).

It should be noted that to address this problem, some manufacturers have added antioxidants to their benzoyl peroxide products. However, the concept is flawed. Antioxidants prevent the optimal functioning of the benzoyl peroxide, while the latter, in turn, prevents the antioxidants from functioning effectively. The result: your clients will suffer from both acne and wrinkles!

Myth No. 5

Oily skin doesn’t need hydration.

Many people think that oily skin’s worst nightmare is a hydrating or moisturizing product. The misinformed believe that oily, acne-prone skin types need harsh, stripping products to remove excess sebum and diminish sebum production.

The truth: A vicious circle is created by the use of astringent products, as the skin’s natural response is to overproduce sebum to counteract the stripping effects: oily skin, harsh detergent products, oilier skin, and so on and so forth.

The key to treating oily skin optimally is to achieve a balance between not enough sebum and excess sebum production. This is best achieved with noncomedogenic, lightweight moisturizers that will hydrate the skin, but do not increase oiliness. A favorite ingredient is jojoba seed oil, which is close to human sebum in chemical composition, and thus acts as both a hydrator and a sebum regulator.

Myth No. 6

SPF products are enough to protect the skin from sun damage.

Wear an SPF product, in particular with a high SPF factor (30+), reapply it regularly, and you will be completely safe from ultraviolet-induced sun damage, whether from UVA or UVB rays, right? Not really.

The truth: First, SPF terminology is primarily a measure of UVB protection, and does not apply to UVA rays. Furthermore, most ingredients used in SPF products available on the U.S. market do not block the entire ultraviolet spectrum.

SPF filters work in one of two ways: they either absorb UVAs (320 to 400 nm) and UVBs (290 to 320 nm), or they reflect these nefarious rays. The more popular metallic ingredients such as zinc or titanium are examples of ingredients that facilitate the reflection of light. Zinc protects from rays ranging from 290 to 380 nm, whereas titanium protects from rays ranging form 290 to 340 nm. Neither protect from the 380 to 400 nm range (UVA rays).

The solution: always complement SPF protection (which, let’s be clear, is absolutely essential) with antioxidant protection. Indeed, antioxidants such as green tea effectively neutralize the free radicals that are created from incomplete reflection or absorption of nefarious ultraviolet rays. As such, antioxidants are the skin’s second line of defense and, when combined with SPF products, enable the most effective sun protection. Specifically, always recommend that your clients apply an antioxidant product underneath their SPF product.

Myth No. 7

Wrinkles are the primary sign of skin aging.

With the emergence of cosmeceuticals, the rise of photorejuvenation treatments, and the increased popularity of injections, the focus of anti-aging therapies has been wrinkles.

Wrinkles are indeed a key sign of skin aging, caused by changes in each of the skin’s layers. However, should a 70-year-old, wrinkled patient undergo a facelift, her wrinkles would be gone, but she would still not look 40. Why not?

The truth: While wrinkles are a key sign of skin aging, there are four other tell-tale signs that should be targeted by any comprehensive rejuvenation treatment regimen:

• A citrin (yellowish) coloration of the skin
• Brown spots (a.k.a., age spots)
• Increased redness and broken capillaries
• Increased roughness of the skin

The colored aspect of aged skin (both red and brown) as well as its rough texture, are as important as wrinkling when diagnosing aging skin and recommending the best treatment options to your clients. Remember to treat wrinkles, but also uneven pigmentation and skin tone, suggesting treatments such as peels, pulsed-dye laser treatments and microdermabrasion.

Myth No. 8

Anti-aging treatments are for the face only.

Spa goers and skin care consumers typically spend more time and money on products and treatments to rejuvenate their faces than their body. The widespread belief is that one’s face is what gives away one’s age. Or is it?

The truth: Most women reveal their age with their neck, décolleté, and hands … The skin of the neck, arms, hands and décolleté (and scalp for many men) is as exposed to ultraviolet radiation as the face and needs as much, if not more, protection. Most anti-aging products that are adequate for the face will also be good for these exposed body parts. Remind your clients to treat their body, in particular their neck, décolleté, hands, and arms, to prevent the appearance of brown spots, wrinkles and other signs of skin aging. Anti-aging products for the body are now prevalent, ranging from body lotions that contain antioxidants to body washes that are based on glycolic acid.

Myth No. 9

Skin care is for women only.

Signs of skin aging affect women only—a more mature woman is considered “old,” whereas an older gentleman, with wrinkles, brown spots, and white hair is considered “wise and rugged” (think Clint Eastwood or Sean Connery).

The truth: Skin cancer is not picky in terms of gender, and affects men and women indiscriminately. Protection from sun damage and ultraviolet rays is as important for men as it is for women. As such, a sound skin care regimen, which includes antioxidant moisturizers, sun protection, and products based on other rejuvenating ingredients, is necessary if men are to age not only gracefully, but also safely. Indeed, men are becoming much more amenable to such products and treatments, as is illustrated by their increasing interest in cosmetic therapies such as hair removal, injections and more.

Myth No. 10

Organic products are always the best skin care choice.

There has been an increase in interest for alternative therapies like yoga, natural wellness, organic skin care products and organic foods, as well as more holistic approaches to well-being. And rightly so: the American Academy of Nutrition recommends the extensive consumption of fruits and vegetables as a better alternative to cancer prevention than micronutrients, antioxidants and/or vitamins in oral supplement form.

The truth: The truth is not too far from the myth … natural and organic ingredients are safe, and a holistic approach to wellness is a positive development in the skin care field. However, all these natural ingredients have to be formulated, enhanced, and preserved so that we may use them safely and efficiently. The optimal therapeutic modality, in terms of both skin care regimen and treatment program, should be highly customized to each client, and should blend medical and scientific treatments or medications with natural, organic, and holistic approaches to wellness. The most effective, therapeutic approach will be a synergistic one: nature and science hand in hand.

About Ada Polla Tray

Ada S. Polla Tray, MBA, launched a skin care products company, Alchimie Forever, in North America in 2003. She has experience in consulting and product management of medical devices. A frequent speaker at Georgetown University and skin care/spa conferences, she is on the editorial board of PCI Journal and is a member of the ISPA marketing committee.

Comments

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