Do you know how to separate the myths vs reality when it comes to proper skin care? Even estheticians don't get it right all of the time. Its always surprising to me to learn the level of mis-information that's out there regarding skin care.
In a great article from Skin Inc Magazine, Mark Lees (one of the skin care industry's foremost leaders on skin care education) polls estheticians during a session at a national conference to see just how much THEY can separate fact from fiction. Their answers may surprise you...
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Getting the Facts Straight
By: Mark Lees, PhD
Posted: December 31, 2009, from the January 2010 issue of Skin Inc. Magazine.
Editor’s note: This article is based on “Real vs. Rumor: The Truths and Myths of Skin Care,” the author’s presentation at Face & Body® 2009 Spa and Healthy Aging Conference and Expo in San Jose, California.
The
skin care industry has always been plagued with rumors and myths. In
order to dispel some of these many fallacies, a special class was
designed to help clear up frequent misconceptions, as well as discover
how many estheticians knew the truth about these common
understandings—or misunderstandings, as it may be.
At the Face & Body® 2009 Spa & Healthy Aging Conference and Expo
in San Jose, California, 68 estheticians were presented with a
questionnaire listing 12 commonly held beliefs about skin care and were
then asked to identify these statements as true or false. The purpose
of this survey was to determine whether the estheticians attending this
educational session actually knew the correct information. The results
of the survey follow, along with an explanation of the correct answers.
True or false? Mineral oil causes clogged pores.
31% answered true; 69% answered false
This
is a very common erroneous belief among both estheticians and
consumers. The simple truth is pharmaceutical-grade or cosmetic mineral
oil is noncomedogenic. In many studies, mineral oil has been shown not
to form comedones, and in one study, it has been shown to actually
decrease inflammation in acne patients. However, the fact that mineral
oil has an oily texture may be objectionable to those with already oily
skin.
True or false? Breakouts after facials are an indication that the skin is purging itself of toxins.
49% answered true; 51% answered false
Breakouts
and pimples that seem to surge after a facial are inflammatory or
irritant reactions to the methods or products used in the treatment.
The skin has no physiological mechanism to purge itself of toxins.
Inflammation occurs within the follicle during the facial treatment and
causes swelling of the follicle walls, which impairs oxygen from
reaching the bottom of the follicle. Acne bacteria are anaerobic, and
thrive in an environment void of oxygen.
To avoid breakouts after
facial treatments, use correct extraction techniques and properly
soften areas to be extracted with a good desincrustant product. Also,
use a soothing serum after extractions, avoid highly fragranced
products and excessive massage or excessive extractions, and eschew any
overdrying masks that could cause irritation.
True or false? Eating greasy foods will not flare acne.
40% answered true; 60% answered false
Even though eating
excessive amounts of fried foods is not a healthy nutrition habit,
there is no scientific evidence that greasy foods cause or worsen acne.
However, there is evidence that working in a greasy environment, such
as a fast-food restaurant, may worsen acne due to the skin being
exposed to airborne grease from frying foods.
True or false? Sun helps dry up acne lesions.
46% answered true; 54% answered false
The
ultraviolet rays of the sun do kill acne bacteria and help to dry up
acne lesions. Additionally, natural pigmentation from tanning can help
hide the redness of acne. However, the same rays cause inflammation and
long-term damage to the skin that might eventually lead to premature
aging or even skin cancer. There are better—and much safer—ways of
drying acne lesions using effective skin care.
True or false? Natural products are less likely to cause breakouts.
15% answered true; 85% answered false
There
is no evidence that skin care products of natural origin are less
likely to cause breakouts than those made with synthetic ingredients.
In fact, many natural skin care products contain natural oils that may
be broken down in the follicle when applied, ending up as fatty acids,
many of which are known to be comedogenic or acnegenic.
Synthetic
ingredients such as silicones and polymers do not break down or create
fatty acids. Additionally, essential oils can be stimulating and
irritating to the follicles, and many frequently used carrier oils for
aromatherapy are known to be comedogenic.
True or false? Acne breakouts concentrated in the chin and jawline areas are likely caused by hormone fluctuations.
82% answered true; 18% answered false
Premenstrual acne flares are very common in the chin and jawline
areas. They have been associated with the hormone variations common
with normal menstrual cycles; the beginning or discontinuation of
hormonal therapy, including birth control pills; and potentially even
gynecological illnesses.
If a client has chronic chin and jawline
breakouts that are not controllable with topical esthetic care, refer
the client to a dermatologist or an endocrinologist for analysis of
individual hormone levels. There are drug therapies that can help with
these fluctuations and their resulting acne flares.
True or false? Benzoyl peroxide often works for a while, but eventually acne bacteria become resistant to it.
50% answered true; 50% answered false
Acne
bacteria do not become resistant to benzoyl peroxide (BPO). BPO is both
antibacterial and keratolytic, helping to rid the skin of dead-cell
buildup on the surface and in the follicle. When a client begins using
BPO, there is usually a fairly fast response, resulting in
substantially clearer skin. Clients sometimes then stop using the BPO,
thinking they are clear and do not need it any longer. Of course, acne
is a chronic condition and lesions will reoccur quickly if the
medication is stopped.
Clients also sometimes overuse BPO,
applying it more often or heavier than recommended. Because BPO is a
peeling agent, it can be an irritant, especially if overused. The
follicles can become irritated from overuse, resulting in
perifollicular inflammation, and therefore causing acne flares. Benzoyl
peroxide is a wonderful medication for clients with acne, and
estheticians should take the time to educate their clients and coach
them on its correct use.
True or false? You should avoid products containing any form of alcohol, because it dries the skin.
38% answered true; 62% answered false
The
term alcohol is a chemical term, and it takes many forms in cosmetic
chemistry. Certain forms of alcohol such as isopropyl, ethyl and SD
alcohols are volatile alcohols and should be avoided in skin types that
are dry or sensitive. However, oily and combination skin types may
actually benefit from small amounts of volatile alcohols, helping to
disperse excess sebum on the skin’s surface.
SD alcohol is
sometimes also used as an evaporating agent, added to quickly dry
products. Other forms of alcohols are actually moisturizing
ingredients, such as cetyl alcohol, which is used in lightweight
moisturizers.
True or false? Skin dryness and dehydration is a primary cause of wrinkles.
37% answered true; 63% answered false
Skin dryness and
dehydration can certainly make wrinkles and aging skin look worse, but
wrinkles are primarily caused by facial expression and cumulative sun
exposure. Using a daily moisturizer with hydration agents that also
contains a broad-spectrum sunscreen is a great way to help wrinkles
look better and prevent the daily exposure that actually causes damage
to the dermis making skin wrinkled.
Also, daily use of some the
newer peptide products, along with agents such as alpha hydroxy acid
and retinol, can actually have long-term benefits in making the skin
look much less wrinkled.
True or false? 100% all-natural products are chemical-free.
3% answered true; 97% answered false
Nothing
is chemical-free. Everything, including plant extracts, skin care
products and even the human body is made up of chemicals. Without
chemicals, people could not move, think or live. Natural substances can
contain hundreds of chemicals that are naturally present, and in fact,
one-third of all prescription drugs are made from plant sources.
True or false? Allergic reactions are the No. 1 type of reaction caused by skin care products.
54% answered true; 46% answered false
The
No. 1 type of reaction to skin care products are irritant reactions,
mostly caused by overexfoliation, which damages the barrier function of
the skin, causing both inflammation and dehydration. Overuse of
foaming-type cleansers or using cleansers that are too strong for the
skin type can also cause irritant reactions.
Irritant reactions
can also affect anyone who overexfoliates or overuses stripping
products, or even overstimulates the skin. Allergic reactions only
occur in people who have a strong immune reaction to the product.
True or false? Drinking alcohol causes phymatous rosacea, or rhinophyma.
29% answered true; 71% answered false
Drinking alcohol can be
a trigger for rosacea flares and sudden redness in people who already
have rosacea, as can heat, sun, stress, spicy foods and even exercise.
None of these actually cause rosacea however, and not all triggers
affect all rosacea patients.
Rosacea, including phymatous
rosacea, which causes the bulbous nose condition known as rhinophyma,
is believed to be hereditary. Rosacea patients should avoid triggers
that flare their condition, as continual flaring can make it worse.
While
it is encouraging that many estheticians already knew the correct
answers to these questions, it’s important for all skin care
professionals to be skeptical about any statements they hear regarding
skin care. The true answer to preventing myths and erroneous
information is to keep from spreading it in the industry and to clients
by learning the correct information at continuing education classes.